2019ApatsagiJuhfark,Hungary

<p>Somló is Hungary’s smallest appellation and is the result ofthe erosion of ancient lava flows. A lone volcanic butte. Nowdormant, its slopes of ancient sea sediment, hardened lava,and basalt are home to some of Hungary’s steepest, mostdensely planted vineyards. Driving up to Somló from LakeBalaton, it’s like seeing an island rise up from the ocean’shorizon. The oldest writings mentioning the wine of Somló dateback to 1093 and viticulture all the way back to the Romans.Hungarian Kings bought vineyards here, Maria Theresa andQueen Victoria both praised the wines, and insurgentHungarian troops fighting against the Habsburgs would solutethe vineyards as they marched past at the end of the 17thcentury. In 1752, local laws stated that if you were foundadding water to wine, expect 25 lashings as the minimumpunishment. If you were found to be labeling wine as Somlóbut using other fruit sources, you would be banned frommaking wine permanently and might even have your propertyconfiscated. Upon our last visit we were fortunate enough torun into Zoltán Balogh from Apátsági Winery. Their estate andcellar were originally owned by the Benedictine PannonhalmaArchabbey. After WWII, the land was expropriated andredistributed during Communism. It was brought back to lifeand replanted in 2001 with 5 people including the grandson ofthe last winemaker before the war. Zoltán’s grandparents werealso local winemakers on the hill.</p>